Fashion in Harmony designs are created utilizing the amazing bias cut.The bias cut is the act of placing the fabric on a 45 degree angle to the straight of grain, allowing the fabric to collapse and shape itself to the form underneath (the body). This method of garment cutting (pattern making) was made famous in the 1930's by Madeline Vionnet. It is comfortable to wear and feminine in design.
Bias grain refers to the grain which is a 45 degree angle to the lengthwise and crosswise grain of the fabric. Garments cut on the bias appear softer and more fluid, have more stretch, and are more supple than those cut on the lengthwise or crosswise grain. When fabric is placed on the bias grain, the air spaces in between the warp and weft threads of the fabric collapse allowing the fabric to be more fluid and soft on the body and to stretch and collapse around the body - to mold to the shape it is covering.
Tips for working with Bias
- Use one inch seams for all bias seams.
- Use as few seams as possible.
- The larger or more curvy your body is, the more ease you need in a bias garment for it to look attractive – think of Jean Harlow in her dress that looked painted on – if you don't have that figure – go for more of a "skimming" effect with more ease. 5-6" of ease is usually the right amount.
- When you need to piece the fabric, always piece on the straight of grain.
- Handle the fabric as gently as possible after it has been cut out.
- Stabilize bias seams that are in support positions – wherever the garment hangs from the body such as the shoulders or the waist with stay tape or a strip of selvage sewn into the seam.
- Necklines and armholes need to be stabilized with either a strip of selvage sewn in with the facing or binding, or fusible bias stay tape.